

Washing
I've thrown mine into the dishwasher for years, and they still look good.
I hand wash the rare things, but the basic dishes I just machine wash.
Sometimes I've found dishes with knife marks. My stainless steel knives
don't make any marks, but soft steel or silver can make marks. To remove them,
I've sometimes had to resort to No. 7 polish (from the auto supply store).
The dishes looked new after polishing. I've used solvents on them, and nothing
bad has happened.
Cooking
They claim to be oven-safe, but I'm always very careful with heating them.
I think they might be ok in the microwave, I've used them in it before without
any explosions, but your mileage may vary. I fill the coffee pot with hot tap
water to pre-heat it before I put hot coffee into it. I've never crazed one,
and I've never seen any with crazing, so they are probably pretty resistant.
From: "D. Bryan Chaney"
I have microwaved mine so many times they glow, but nothing bad has
happened, like: chipping, crazing, cracking... I have a pretty
industrial microwave too. I microwave several pieces a couple times a
day.
I tried to heat some food in an electric oven once and broke a
dinner plate. It cracked down the exact center like it was cut with a
laser.
Breakage
It takes a pretty good fall to break them. There isn't a whole lot you can
do if you do break a dish. However...
You can make them into things:
Smash up broken dishes and use them in mosaic. Grout them onto flower pots.
Turn cracked teapots, coffeepots etc into lamps.
Use chipped dishes as your every-day dishes, and save the good ones for special
occasions.
Lead?
From: "D. Bryan Chaney"
I bought a lead test and tried it on a broken bread plate. It passed.
Lead was undectable--I used the same swab on a door and it turned red.
The Starburst passed. The door failed.
Collecting
Buy the rare stuff first, if you plan on collecting. You will find piles of
common stuff at good prices if you go for the rare things first.
Don't buy damaged stuff. You won't enjoy them, you can't sell them, and you
can always make your own.
Don't pay high prices for common stuff. Shop around. I saw a dealer selling
teacups for $12. Your reaction to prices like these should be: HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAA!
Pay high prices for really rare stuff. If you see something really rare, and
it is priced a little high, buy it anyway. You will regret things you let
go later. Don't pay insane prices, but expect to pay the full retail price.
Price Guides
Just check on eBay.
Damage
Here are my terms for pottery damage, and my rating scale.
0 is perfect. I'd keep my slobby pals away from this good stuff.
1 you probably would accept from the factory.
Stuff with these problems is usually sold 'AS IS':
2 might be sold as a second from the factory, but is close enough to perfect
for your china cabinet unless you are extra fussy.
3 is good enough for every day use, to save wear on your better stuff.
4 is a bit gimpy, and you'd avoid using it if you had friends over.
5 might go in the trash.
6 is usually for smashing up into mosaic.
- 0 Wire marks
- Not damage, just marks from support wires from the firing process.
- 1 Pinhole
- Small dot of ceramic was never glazed over.
- 2-3 Bare spot
- Area of ceramic was never glazed over, might be a factory second.
- 2 Nick
- A small area of glaze has been knocked off up to, but not through, the ceramic body.
- 3 Scrape
- A larger area of glaze has been rubbed off.
- 4 Chip
- A small piece of glaze and ceramic has been knocked off.
- 1-2 Blotch
- An area of the glaze has a different color or density of speckle.
- 1-3 Misdecaled
- A decal was broken or placed badly.
- 2-3 Stain
- A stain that does not seem to be removable. This happens sometimes
if the piece is crazed.
- 1 unstamped
- They forgot to stamp the manufacture's lable on it. This
bugs people trying to sell more than it bugs collectors.
- 0-1 Knife-mark
- The surface of the glaze has marks on it that can be buffed off.
- 1-3 Scratch
- The surface of the glaze has a groove in it.
- 2-4 Scuff
- The surface of the glaze has a pattern of multiple grooves in it.
- 1-4 Crazed
- The glaze has a crackle pattern on it. Some patterns suffer
from this problem much more than others. It hurts the value less when it is a
common problem.
- 3-4 Dead
- The pottery does not ring when tapped, possibly indicating an invisible
crack.
- 4-5 Hairline-crack
- The pottery has a crack on one side that doesn't penetrate
to the other, and that does not seem to do structural damage or leak.
- 5 Crack
- The pottery has a crack right through it, but is not broken.
- 6 Break
- The pottery came apart and was glued back together.
- 2-3 Second
- A slightly defective piece sold at a discount by the factory.
- 4-5 Third
- A really defective piece, probably salvaged.
- Knock-off
- A piece that resembles a well-known piece
- Copy
- A piece that very closely resembles a well-known piece
- Forgery
- A piece that was sold misrepresented as something else
- Marriage
- Usually the wrong lid on a piece.
Dealing through the mail
Don't accept being cheated by mail. It might cost a little more, and take more
effort, but you should take legal action if you need to. There are steps you
can take to avoid flim-flam.
- Make sure everything is shipped insured.
- The dealer should stamp the bottom of the piece, and request that it is inspected
before the stamp is removed. This prevents the scam of replacing a piece with
a broken example and asking for a refund. Be careful stamping crazed things, though,
because the ink will cause a stain.
- The seller should agree to accept a returned piece. Do not buy as-is through
the mail without a fair return policy.
- Pack stuff that will be sent in the mail as if it was going to be dropped
from orbit.
- Figure in packing and shipping when selling through the mail.
- If you steal from people through the mail, learn how to make a toothbrush
into a knife to protect yourself while you are in prison.